Las calles de Toledo: The streets of Toledo

TOLEDO

So, we stayed up all night, but we got an hour-long nap on the train to Toledo, where we discovered a city void of the "modern city" feel...which was fantastic. It was quiet, and generally looked uninhabited. A great place to visit, but I think to live there would be frustrating with mostly tourists like ourselves wandering through the narrowest of streets, voices echoing through the town.

We walked from the train station to the city, with constantly changing views from the exterior as we went uphill to the main entry gate.
Sure, it looks welcoming and modern now, but it used to be a towering fortress around the city of Toledo, accessible on horseback---not car. In fact, most streets are too tiny for any normal-sized car, smart cars and motos were the only ones that would fit!

No, it's not just a perspective...This walkway went from a normal street size to a walkway about 3 feet wide in the course of approximately 20 feet, and continues around the corner!
Our first stop was the Mosque of Bib Mardum where I gave a short presentation on Islamic architecture and the Mosque, itself.

Spain was conquered by the Muslims in 711 AD. Unlike in many situations, however, the Muslims did not simply wipe out the existing culture, nor did the Christians when they regained control centuries later. Instead, there was an integration of the many different styles and cultural elements that lead to a unique architecture as can still be seen today.

Part of the reason for this mixing is the fact that the conquerors, as a group of traveling warriors, consisted of few women, so when they settled in Spain, it was necessary for them to marry Spanish women. This led to cultural mixing as well as a sense of security and peace.

Islamic architecture is known for its detail and structure. NO animals or icons are used because of the religious beliefs about false deities. The decorations are instead mostly plantlike or from the holy books. Elements of Islamic Arch. include, but aren't limited to the horseshoe arch, screens, corbelling, double-tiered arches, and glass tesserae (tiles). An example of the combination of such elements is the Great Mosque of Cordoba, which we will be visiting this week.

The Mosque of Bib Mardum, itself, was completed in its original cube form in 999 AD as a musalla (private devotional space) and was likely connected to a palace. It was originally open on all sides except for the quibla wall (facing Mecca). Since its original completion and the regain of control by Christians in about 1400, the Mosque was converted into a church/chapel called Cristo de la Luz (Christ of Light). Walls were put up to enclose the mosque and an apse and transitional space were attached to one side. In the photo above you can see where the old mosque (right) is connected to the new chapel (left). The Chapel/Mosque is currently being restored.

Past the gardens we encountered behind the Mosque we found an amazing lookout over part of the city. You can see group pictures on some of the other students' sites. I loved that the colors were all different but still read as a collective whole.

After the mosque, we went to a church service in Spanish to get out of the cold, since we were scheduled to be in Toledo all day. Afterwards we walked a bit through their winding streets then split up for lunch before Ben went home sick.

From there, Victoria, Mon, Rob and I continued exploring the city. We found the Alcazar (Castle) of Toledo, beside which there was a lookout point over the river and the major roads, as well as the rocky hills and grassy knolls surrounding the city. It was GORGEOUS! Mon and I decided the only thing it was missing to match our idea of the Irish countryside was a few white sheep on the hillside! After Alcazar's lookout we wandered back toward the main plaza of the city, which was dead all day, and found a cafe to get a snack before heading to meet the group near la Catedral.

We were clearly excited to reunite with our group!

(Tom, Bob, Mon, Bri, Victoria, Rob)

La Catedral de Santa Maria de Toledo was beautiful! Tom, who had visited in a previous trip, was shocked and disappointed with the renovations on the interior-namely the painting of the interior walls to reduce the dark quality that the old stone gave. To me, though, not having an idea of the previous state, I was content to stare at the fantastic art and detailing such as could be found in this side burial room.

The main altar was even more over-the-top ornate with gold-colored EVERYTHING!

The most incredible part for me, though, was this area behind the main altar space. A hole in the ceiling, with a painted interior and sculptures surrounding it. The back wall of the altar acted as the human connection to this heavenly space directly overhead. Pictures or words just couldn't do it justice--you'll have to visit for yourself.

On the way back, we looked for the escalators designed by Cecilia's old firm. They were cool and innovative, but the best part about them was how much fun we had with our group. We took tons of pictures, but mine got lost somewhere in the transfer from one technological device to another...and you know the story...

Tom and I got churros to share on the train. We grabbed a quick dinner and then Victoria and I passed out, despite my previous thought of going out with Monica! Bob woke us up to tell us that we wern't going out. Sleep is good-thanks Bob!